Lamu, Kenya – Your Ultimate Travel Guide

Lamu Old Town

Lamu County is the northernmost coastal county in Kenya on the Indian Ocean coastline. While Lamu County is vast, the most touristic areas are Lamu Old Town, Shela Beach, Pate Island, and Manda Islands.

In this article, we’ll review Lamu’s tourist areas, attractions, and everything you need to know before visiting. Lamu County borders Somalia to the north, but this section is far from tourist areas. There is nothing interesting to see in this part, simply stick to the tourist areas.

Everything you need to know before visiting Lamu

Rustic Swahili door in Lamu
Rustic Swahili door

1. How to get to Lamu

The fastest and safest way to get to Lamu is by air. Once you land on Lamu mainland, you will take a boat to Lamu Island or any other island you plan to visit.

While road travel is cheaper, some sections of the road leading to Lamu are not safe, and attacks from al Shabab have been reported in the past.

2. Lamu is extremely beautiful

Lamu is a very beautiful place to visit. From your plane enjoy the pristine waters of the Indian Ocean, the islands, and general soundings.

Once you are in Lamu, you will love the beaches, the buildings, exploring the old town and so much more.

3. Dress decently

Lamu is a Muslim-dominated county and decency is practiced. Avoid skimpy clothing or showing too much skin while walking on the streets. At the beach, you can wear your swimsuits no one will ask you to cover up.

While decency is upheld, as a visitor you are not required to dress in traditional Muslim outfits. Simply make sure what you are wearing is decent and not inappropriate for the streets and public places.

4. No alcohol in public

As a Muslim region, alcohol is not easily available in shops. You can buy a drink from your hotel, the alcohol deport, or at the police canteen. Don’t drink in public places such as at the beach or when walking around the town.

5. Prayer time

It’s important to note that most shops, canteens, and hotels are closed for 30 -45 minutes each day during prayer time. This is observed at 12 pm and 6 pm every day. If you need to buy snacks or a drink do it before prayer time.

narrow streets in Lamu, Kenya
A narrow street in Lamu

6. Transport

Lamu Islands have three main modes of transportation. You can either walk, take a donkey ride, or use a boat. A few motorbikes can be found in a few locations meaning they are not very reliable.

If you want to move from one island to the next, boat rides are the main mode of transportation. You can choose to go on a private boat ride which will cost you about $6 per person. A public boat ride will cost you about $1 or $2 per person. There are many boats so don’t worry about the traffic.

7. Carry cash

When exploring the islands solo, carry cash as most business owners only take cash. However, if your whole trip is organized by your hotel, then you can pay using cards or mobile money transfers.

8. Learn to Negotiate

As a budget solo traveler, learn basic negotiation skills. While most activities are within an affordable range, don’t be shy to negotiate if you are running on a tight budget. Negotiate boat ride fare or guide fee.

9. Hire a guide

The best way to explore Lamu and learn about the rich Swahili culture is with a guide. All guides in Lamu require licensing to operate. If you are not sure where to get the guides, you can always ask your accommodation manager to organize one.

It’s quite easy to explore Lamu on your own but to get the most out of your strolls, I highly recommend going on a guided tour.

10. Understand the Geography before booking your accommodation

There are three popular touristic areas in Lamu. These are Lamu Old Town, Manda Island, and Shela Beach. When staying in Lamu Old Town which is located on Lamu Island, you will need to take a boat to Shela Beach.

If staying on Manda Island then you can simply walk the beach. In Pate, you have access to the beautiful beaches of the largest of the three islands.

11. Friendly Locals

The people of Lamu are very friendly and love to share their heritage with visitors. If you find yourself long in the narrow streets simply ask a local for directions.

If you love history and love to explore different cultures, then make sure to visit Pate Island after visiting Lamu Island. The Island was founded by Omani refugees in the 8th century. In Pate, you will also find a local tribe with Chinese roots here. During the Indian Ocean trade era, a Chinese boat capsized near Pate Island. The survivors settled on Pate Island and intermarried with the locals. The history of the Lamu islands is truly fascinating.

12. Safety

Lamu Islands are safe for tourists and locals to visit and explore. It’s very rare to hear of pickpocketing cases or tourist scams. Some vendors may give you exorbitant prices when buying items but you can always negotiate.

Beautiful door in Lamu Old Town | Lamu Kenya
Beautiful door in Lamu Old Town

Why is Lamu so popular?

Lamu Old Town is the oldest, well preserved, and still inhabited Swahili settlement in East Africa. Lamu town dates back to the 12th century, having been built in the 1300s. The popular town stands on a coral rock island and uses very simple sustainable building materials.

The town served as a trading center connecting Indian, European, Arab, Swahili, Bantu, and Persian traders. For this reason, there is a lot of architectural influence in the old town. The buildings are a harmonious fusion of all these influences but somehow each stands out.

Lamu is also popular as the town with no cars and uses donkeys for transportation. Since the old town is located on a small island, the streets are very narrow and no cars can fit through.

Another reason why Lamu is so popular is that the inhabitants have preserved Swahili traditions, values, and culture for over 700 years. Its uniqueness and authenticity attract thousands of tourists each year and have been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 2001.

In addition to the popular old town, Lamu coastal region is extremely beautiful. With white sandy beaches and the pristine blue waters of the Indian Ocean, Lamu is a dream holiday destination.

Is Lamu in Kenya or Somalia?

Lamu is in Kenya with a small section bordering Somalia to the north.

When most people talk about Lamu, they are referring to Lamu Island which is part of Lamu County. Lamu Island, the surrounding beaches, and the islands are the most visited and most popular part of Lamu County. The larger area of mainland Lamu is less popular and unknown to tourists.

For this reason, it’s easy for foreigners to make a general assumption that Lamu is unsafe as it borders Somalia. In reality, the Somalia-Kenya border in Lamu is over one thousand kilometers away from Lamu Island.

Is Lamu Safe?

Yes, Lamu is extremely safe for locals and tourists. The people of Lamu are friendly, very helpful, and love visitors.

As mentioned above, the fact that Lamu County borders Somalia to the north may be a reason for concern for some people. I can assure you that Lamu Islands are safe to visit and no need to worry. However, if you plan on exploring the northern parts of the county by road, take caution and have a police escort.

How many Islands are in Lamu Kenya

There are over 60 islands in the Lamu archipelago. The three main and large islands are Lamu, Manda, and Pate islands. Most of the other islands are small and deserted but you can visit during the day. Kiwayu Island is among the few smaller islands sparsely populated by locals.

The islands in Lamu are rich in ancient Swahili history and monuments dating back to the 12th century. You may not have a chance to explore them all but you will cover a large portion after visiting the three main islands.

What is the best time to visit Lamu?

The best time to visit Lamu is in the off-peak season, from May to September. Accommodation rates are lower and tourist traffic is lower.

Tropical weather lasts all year long so if prices or too many tourists aren’t an issue, then you can visit any time of the year. Keep in mind that in January and February, it can get very hot as it’s the driest season in Kenya.

Where to stay: Lamu Hotels

Accommodation in Lamu comes in different packages. As a budget traveler, you can choose to stay in an Airbnb or stay at a budget-friendly hotel. Airbnbs are available starting from $35 per night. Mid-range accommodation which I found to be very nice is available for $40 – $100 per night.

If you are on a splurging budget, options are endless, from beautiful beach resorts to house rentals. There are many luxury accommodation options, with all-inclusive packages such as Manda Bay Lodge or the popular Forodhani House.

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